L AMERIQUE A SANCOINS Index du Forum

L AMERIQUE A SANCOINS
Pour les amateurs de voiture américaines V8 L6 Harley Davidson et Rock'n'Roll

 FAQFAQ   RechercherRechercher   MembresMembres   GroupesGroupes   S’enregistrerS’enregistrer 
 ProfilProfil   Se connecter pour vérifier ses messages privésSe connecter pour vérifier ses messages privés   ConnexionConnexion 

CHEVROLET CORVAIR 1966

 
Poster un nouveau sujet   Répondre au sujet    L AMERIQUE A SANCOINS Index du Forum -> Passions autos,motos, tracteurs, moteurs -> LE GARAGE (pour presenter votre auto ou faire un poste sur la restauration )
Sujet précédent :: Sujet suivant  
Auteur Message
DOCCHARGER
Administrateur

Hors ligne

Inscrit le: 29 Fév 2008
Messages: 10 095
Localisation: sancoins

MessagePosté le: Sam 1 Mar - 18:30 (2008)    Sujet du message: CHEVROLET CORVAIR 1966 Répondre en citant

 c'est en deménagent de la region parisienne pour venir dans le centre que j'ai découvert cette corvair dans un petit garage

donc le jour ou j'ai vue ce model dans un garage je me suis dit je la veux



elle venait d'etre repeinte mais tout l'interieur a remonté et aussi les baguettes exterieurs le moteur boite enveloper d'une croute de boue
du bricolage rien de bien mechant
mais juste un toure de temps en temps pour lui faire prendre l'air car je prefere ma dodge charger ou ma cadillac mais j'ai pas envie de me séparer de cette chevrolet bien sympatique



Cette voiture est sortie en 1960 c'est un model plein de nouveauté au USA 4 roues à suspension independantes
 mais surtout moteur arrierre 6 cylindres a plat refroidissement par air plusieurs configurations
 un gros carburateur central , deux carburateurs un par ranger de cylindre , ou quatre carburateurs deux par coté de cylindre et aussi un model TURBO COMPRESSER
Cette voiture a été la premiere qui a declanché les grands proces au constructeur Chevrolet par le célebre avocat  Ralph Nader qui la déclarait dangereuse a la suite d'une série d'accidents mais en faite les americains n'etaient pas habitué a la légereté de l'avant comme sur nos quatre chevaux et Dauphine qu'il fallait lester pour bien tenir la route








le model 1966 delivrait en 4 carburateurs 140 chevaux







Un petit éclater sympa qui explique bien ces particularitées



une utilisation imprevue du moteur Corvair comme il est tout alu et refroidissement par air les passionné d'avion l'on utilisé sur de petit avions



un autre usage les AIRBOAT des marais de Louisiane et de Floride




Encore un autre usage 

 
_________________
si votre voiture tient pas la route c'est que vous allez trop vite
http://www.fdesouche.com/


Dernière édition par DOCCHARGER le Mar 2 Nov - 17:31 (2010); édité 1 fois
Revenir en haut
Publicité






MessagePosté le: Sam 1 Mar - 18:30 (2008)    Sujet du message: Publicité

PublicitéSupprimer les publicités ?
Revenir en haut
Christophe Delahaie


Hors ligne

Inscrit le: 13 Mar 2008
Messages: 586

MessagePosté le: Sam 15 Mar - 21:41 (2008)    Sujet du message: CHEVROLET CORVAIR 1966 Répondre en citant

Bonsoir;

J'avais une R8 il y a une vingtaine d'années ... deux parpaings à l'avant obligatoire pour que la voiture tienne la route ... et accélération dans les virages obligatoire !!!

Bonne soirée

Christophe
_________________
- Membre perpétuel du Dixie Drivers Ass.
- Amour éternel et virtuel de la Frisette


Revenir en haut
DOCCHARGER
Administrateur

Hors ligne

Inscrit le: 29 Fév 2008
Messages: 10 095
Localisation: sancoins

MessagePosté le: Dim 16 Mar - 16:31 (2008)    Sujet du message: CHEVROLET CORVAIR 1966 Répondre en citant

 He oui c'était les parpaings ou le sac de sable  pareille pour les 4 chevaux  et les Dauphines sauf dans ma Dauphine car il y avait tellement de caisse a outils que j'avais pas besoin de parpaing
_________________
si votre voiture tient pas la route c'est que vous allez trop vite
http://www.fdesouche.com/


Revenir en haut
Plouc


Hors ligne

Inscrit le: 07 Juil 2008
Messages: 1 215
Localisation: les grottes de Gien

MessagePosté le: Ven 11 Juil - 15:26 (2008)    Sujet du message: CHEVROLET CORVAIR 1966 Répondre en citant

Un petit hic à la chose : C'est que dans un enchainement rapide de virages, les parpaings peuvent se déplacer et déséquilibrer le véhicule :twisted:

Mets plutot un sac de sable ou une table de plomb qui épousera parfaitement les formes du coffre et te laissera la place disponible à l'intérieur de celui-ci. Okay

Mais compte tenu des vitesses actuelles, tu n'as plus besoin de rien :mrgreen:
_________________
A quatorze ans les américaines me faisaient bander, aujourd'hui....je voudrais avoir quatorze ans.


Revenir en haut
DOCCHARGER
Administrateur

Hors ligne

Inscrit le: 29 Fév 2008
Messages: 10 095
Localisation: sancoins

MessagePosté le: Ven 11 Juil - 15:34 (2008)    Sujet du message: CHEVROLET CORVAIR 1966 Répondre en citant

   La mienne tient la route , j'ai couler du beton les parpaings n'etait pas a la bonne dimension
_________________
si votre voiture tient pas la route c'est que vous allez trop vite
http://www.fdesouche.com/


Revenir en haut
rustic_kilo
Invité

Hors ligne




MessagePosté le: Dim 20 Juil - 20:13 (2008)    Sujet du message: Monza Répondre en citant

salut Doc,
ma premiere voiture était un Monza de 1967, elle me  plaisait bien,j'ai eu mon permis dans le Maine en 1968,  j'ai fait plein de week-end à St.geroges de Beauce au Quebec car la majorité al'époque etait de 21 and au USA et de 18 ans au Quebec, des orgies e bieres LOL!
:lol:  


Revenir en haut
DOCCHARGER
Administrateur

Hors ligne

Inscrit le: 29 Fév 2008
Messages: 10 095
Localisation: sancoins

MessagePosté le: Dim 20 Juil - 20:57 (2008)    Sujet du message: CHEVROLET CORVAIR 1966 Répondre en citant

salut rustic  je roule pas beaucoup avec cette corvair mais j'aime bien cette auto
j'etais avec toute l'equipe de chateauroux au chateau d'azay le ferron ont à parler de toi et de ton trailer Airstream
 
 
_________________
si votre voiture tient pas la route c'est que vous allez trop vite
http://www.fdesouche.com/


Revenir en haut
Plouc


Hors ligne

Inscrit le: 07 Juil 2008
Messages: 1 215
Localisation: les grottes de Gien

MessagePosté le: Dim 20 Juil - 22:37 (2008)    Sujet du message: CHEVROLET CORVAIR 1966 Répondre en citant

Idéal le béton pour conserver une voiture.

Ca me rapelle une petite histoire de 87 ou 88 dans le département préféré de notre ami le général. :roll:

Il y avait une mec conducteur d'une toupie de béton qui avait une charmante petite femme qui se faisait allègrement sauter par un brave citoyen(au dessus de tous supçons Cool )
Un jour de semaine,le bétonneux ayant repéré bien garé le long du trottoir, la caisse dudit citoyen,( une BX, bof, :o ), arrèta son camion à coté, et après avoir pété la vitre avant gauche de la toto, déversa le contenu de sa toupie à l'intérieur de celle-ci.
Il parait que c'est idéal pour la tenue de route :mdr:
_________________
A quatorze ans les américaines me faisaient bander, aujourd'hui....je voudrais avoir quatorze ans.


Revenir en haut
rustic_kilo
Invité

Hors ligne




MessagePosté le: Lun 21 Juil - 20:09 (2008)    Sujet du message: CHEVROLET CORVAIR 1966 Répondre en citant

DOCCHARGER a écrit:
salut rustic  je roule pas beaucoup avec cette corvair mais j'aime bien cette auto j'etais avec toute l'equipe de chateauroux au chateau d'azay le ferron ont à parler de toi et de ton trailer Airstream



Hello.....je délaisse un peu le club en ce moment, bien malgé moi!Je me ratrapperais en 2009!Alain, notre président, ma dit que c'était nickel!

Revenir en haut
Musclecar


Hors ligne

Inscrit le: 23 Juil 2008
Messages: 1 064
Localisation: Oise (Neuilly en thelle)

MessagePosté le: Mar 12 Aoû - 03:05 (2008)    Sujet du message: CHEVROLET CORVAIR 1966 Répondre en citant

Plouc a écrit:
Idéal le béton pour conserver une voiture.

Ca me rapelle une petite histoire de 87 ou 88 dans le département préféré de notre ami le général. :roll:

Il y avait une mec conducteur d'une toupie de béton qui avait une charmante petite femme qui se faisait allègrement sauter par un brave citoyen(au dessus de tous supçons Cool )
Un jour de semaine,le bétonneux ayant repéré bien garé le long du trottoir, la caisse dudit citoyen,( une BX, bof, :o ), arrèta son camion à coté, et après avoir pété la vitre avant gauche de la toto, déversa le contenu de sa toupie à l'intérieur de celle-ci.


J'imagine bien la scène ..trop fort l'anecdote mort de rire mort de rire Pauvre BX !!!! (Chut... j'en ai eu 6 des BX  !!!!!!! massue mort de rire massue mort de rire )
_________________

Chez Renault ...c'est pas des chevaux sous l'capot,... c'est des anes.


Revenir en haut
Visiter le site web du posteur
DOCCHARGER
Administrateur

Hors ligne

Inscrit le: 29 Fév 2008
Messages: 10 095
Localisation: sancoins

MessagePosté le: Ven 9 Juil - 19:58 (2010)    Sujet du message: CHEVROLET CORVAIR 1966 Répondre en citant

UN POST SUR LA CONVERSION EN AIR CRAFT DU MOTEUR  UN REGAL


JUSTE LE DEBUT LA SUITE AVEC LE LIEN

CORVAIR AIRCRAFT ENGINE CONVERSION
The following page shows what I went through to convert a 1965 aircooled Corvair engine into an experimental aircraft engine. I plan to install it on my Zenith 601XL, but I bought the engine cores long before I decided on that aircraft. Since experimental aircraft are one of my hobbies, I knew I would eventually need it. Being able to understand that a large part of the cost of a new certified engine has to do with legal expenses and lack of economies of scale, I've always been partial to auto conversions. It's a price driven decision.
It's a pretty common aircraft engine conversion. It was original made by GM, the parts are inexpensive and still available, it's a aircooled six cylinder engine that produces about the right amount of horsepower for a sport aircraft so it's a pretty good choice.
FORWARD
I guess I could start off with some liability statement... there is an inherent danger to experimental aircraft, what I do is not what I recommend you do, buyer beware, you get what you pay for, etc. Also, I am not in anyway affiliated with any other company selling or handing out expertise, parts, or advice and I'm not making any recommendation for or against any item by showing it here. This is just a record of what I have done and although I may make suggestions, I am in no way providing a guarantee or acceptance of your liability.
Also, I do have to tip my hat to those who have come before me and have been kind enough to share their experiences and lessons learned. Thanks to all and specifically to William Wynne and Mark Langford.
And yes, what I have done to my engine conversion will be counter to common practice in some ways: I will be providing a fuel injection system. I will be providing a single coil. I will have a computer that controls both fuel delivery and spark control. I will require a single high pressure fuel pump. If I lose electrical power the engine will quit. If the computer dies, the engine will quit. If my fuel pump dies, the engine will quit. Yep, I know.
CRANKSHAFT
I do have to mention one thought and it concerns the crankshaft. It is the crankshaft which limits the ultimate maximum horsepower that a converted Corvair aircraft engine can deliver. Increasing horsepower requires an increasingly large propeller and increases the bending loads on the fourth journal and bearing. John Brannen did an analysis (of which I studied and found to be pretty close) which showed that the bending forces due to the gyroscopic and asymmetric loads are many times larger than the twisting load due to the application of work. In a car, the crank only sees the twisting load. Even with a perfectly balanced and symmetric propeller, huge asymmetric loads are applied at angles of attack other than 0 degrees (P-Factor). The gyroscopic loads are equally large based on the typical props we are using and typical maneuvers that we are flying.
It’s a matter of lateral bending that is generated by the prop that must be absorbed by the fourth journal and bearing. Actually, it will eventually be absorbed entirely by the journal. As the bearing wears, it eventually allows the journal to bend as much as necessary to absorb the full force.
It’s another engineering balance: You could run the engine at 200 HP with a huge propeller; but the tradeoff would be that the P-Factor and turning rates would have to be excessively limited. Since we generally don’t limit our maneuvers based on maintaining the structural integrity of the engine, the propeller size and horsepower should be limited.
Based on historical evidence, this is a reliable 90 HP aircraft engine.


MASTER CHECKLIST
I have made a master checklist of all items and actions needed during the conversion process. Costs, alternatives, and notes are provided so it's a hell of a checklist (if I do say so myself). The method I use to check off items is to fill in the Actual Prices column. Just looking at mine, you can see which alternatives and which parts I choose by the cost of the item ($0.00 means I did something that required no cost, like cleaning a part, or I chose not buy something).
Corvair Master Checklist



BOOKMARKS
Introduction
Finding the Cores
Engine Disassembly
Electrolytic Rust Removal
MegaSquirt Engine Control Computer
Denso Alternator
Harley Throttle Body
Tapping the Crankshaft Flange
Tapping the Crankshaft Flange, The Easy Way
Snap Ring
Nitriding the Crankshaft
Bellhousing, Case Studs, and Case Assembly
Culver Propeller
Piston Pins and Connecting Rods
Piston Pin Offset
Connecting the Rods to the Pistons
Cylinders
Piston Rings
Compression Ratio
Lifters
Baffles and Balancer
Heads, First Attempt
Distributor, Oil System, and where to put the Alternator
Mock-up Engine Mount
Buying Accessories
Starter
Starter Ring
The Subaru vs Mercury
Building the Starter Ring
Heads, Second Attempt
KR Gathering 2008
Propeller Hub
Bolting the Propeller Hub On
Heads, Third Attempt
Starter Installed
Fuel System
IT RUNS!
Parting Comments






JANUARY 2004
After a year or so of on-and-off searching, I found someone in Alabama who had several. His father collected the engines for experimental aircraft. He wasn't an airplane guy and wasn't interested in Corvairs. So after a few emails with him, I decided to drive down one weekend. I got four 110hp engines, all were complete, three were '65-'68, one was a '64. I got an extra crank, an extra set of heads, three 12 row fin oil coolers, an extra set of pushrod tubes, an extra set of valve covers, two side draft motorcycle carbs, and a gascolator for my Model-A. It was $400 for the engines, the rest he just loaded into my truck for free. I paid cash and gave his buddy $20 for helping us load the engines. The following is a few pictures of where these babies were hidden...
One in the barn, one in the weeds in front of the trailer...

and two more in the trailer.

This is how you get four engines in a Ford 150. Also, it's well over 1000lbs and that makes for an interesting interstate ride home:

AUGUST 2005
Two engines were sold. I didn't need them and he was planning on converting them for aircraft use. The deal was that he would take the '64 and could pick one of the '65's at $150 each (which was my cost including travel expenses):

OCTOBER 23, 2007
ENGINE DISASSEMBLY
With my workshop built, I have a place to really work on my projects. I built a 4x8 table and will temporarily dedicate it to rebuilding an engine. Since I want to use it in the future for other uses, I covered it with plastic to keep it from getting oily.
The disassembly of this engine is really simple. Given access to a few special tools, a first-time rebuilder should be able to take it apart in a weekend. Also note from the following pictures, I disassemble the engine and lay out the parts so that if needed, I can put them back in the exact same location. Even though several of the parts will be replaced, taking the engine apart thinking that all the parts will be reused is my recommendation. After it's apart and cleaned up, then you have the opportunity to measure, think things through, and then determine what you want to replace. I think on this engine I got really lucky because it appears that this one is a low time engine. I see no need to replace the cam, lifters, pushrods, grind the crank, etc. Had I just ripped it apart and damaged parts or gotten them out of order, I wouldn't have any choice but to replace these items.
I did need a harmonic balancer puller. Autozone has a free tool lending program for special tools like that. I did have to make a flexplate puller out of a pine 2x4 and three 3/8" bolts. Other than that, you only need basic wrenches and sockets.
The only real problem that I encountered was how to knock the heads off. On a new engine, once you loosen the bolts, the heads should slide right off. On an old one, you need to work it off with a mallet. My problem was that in trying to hit the more sturdy parts of the alumninum head, I hit the fins a few times. One fin broke off. Had I been thinking clearly, I would had simply have used a one foot pine 2x2 as a drift between the head and the mallet. Duh. Keep the mallet at a distance from the fins.
The other mildly difficult task was to unbolt the rods from the crank on an assembly that wouldn't easily turn. It was like a puzzle. I would unbolt whatever rod that I could get to, spray everthing with WD40, and see how much I could turn the crank until I could get to the next rod. The problem was that pistons were rusted into cylinders and rods were suck on piston pins so nothing really wanted to move easily. I was calm that day so I was able to gently work the problem until I got all the rods/pistons/cylinders loose from the crankshaft.


OCTOBER 26-27, 2007
I did have three case studs turn out of the case. They were all near the back of the engine at cylinders 5 and 6 (adjacent to the bellhousing). I would guess that that part of the engine when in the car gets hotter causing the stud holes to enlarge (due to excessive thermal cycling between the case and the studs).
There are some that simply cut the nuts off in order avoid turning out the case studs. I would recommend against using pliers or vise grips to hold the stud because that would cut grooves in the side of the stud. I'll either just use oversize replacement studs or Locktight the old ones back in (more research on what is acceptable is needed).
A younger version of me:


This is where it got tricky. You can see where I was able to get to some of the rod bolts, but not all of them on an assembly that wouldn't turn. Although I wanted to a few times, I would recommend against bashing it with a hammer. However, I may have used a wooden drift and a mallet a few times.

Nothing interesting here, I just took the oil pan off to see if I could get to the bottom rod bolts from underneath. You can't.

In my left hand is the flywheel. As you can see in the bellhousing, the flexplate is still connected to the crankshaft flange. Even after the crankshaft bolts are removed, the flexplate was still rusted stuck to the crankshaft flange.

After taking the case off of the engine stand (and putting a second engine on the stand just to show off), I used a pine 2x4 with three holes drilled in it to make a puller. Two outer bolts (about 6" long, I can't remember) were pushed through holes in the 2x4 and threaded into flexplate using the flywheel bolt holes. The 2x4 then stoof off of the the flexplate by about two or three inches so that a third bolt and nut could be placed in the center between the 2x4 and the flange center. The head of the bolt was up against the flange, the nut was up against the 2x4, and the excess threaded part of the bolt extended through the 2x4. The nut was turned to try to push them apart and it eventually pulled the flexplate off of the flange. To say it more simply, the two outer bolts pull the flexplate and the center bolt pushes against the crankshaft. (I wish I took a picture.)

Keeping it organized:

Check out the bolts used as feet so the case wouldn't rest on the oil pan. This is something that will be done during assembly so that if the pan is installed, the gasket won't be subjected to unusual forces causing it to leak.

OCTOBER 31, 2007
The following is an example of electrolytic rust removal. Since rust is held on by a electrochemical bond, the bond can be broken by applying the appropriate electrical charge.
The steps are to submerge the part and a sacrificial piece of steel in a alkaline bath, connect a source of DC power, positive to the steel, negative to the rusty part, and let it go. The rust breaks free from the rusty part and collects on the steel. The best part is that no damage is done to the part. This is really useful when you would rather not sandblast a precision or antique piece.
The alkaline salt used in the bath is sodium carbonate (washing soda, hot tub pH reducer, etc.). It is a stronger base than sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) but harder to find. If you really need some, sodium bicarbonate completly breaks down to sodium carbondate at 400 degrees F (in other words, bake some baking soda and you will have washing soda).
There is all kinds of information on the internet from guys who do this at home, just look up "electrolytic rust removal" for the details. Also worth noting is that when it comes time to anodize your aluminum parts, it's a similar process. The difference is that you will use a acid bath and the connect the positive terminal to the part. In other words, you are trying to "rust" the part.
A really rusty spare crankshaft was used as a test:



Two days later:

The crank was pressure washed (the rust turns to mud and washes off) and then sprayed with WD40. Not to damn bad!:

NOVEMBER 14, 2007
Completely disassembled:
Notice the head, pushrods, exhaust logs, etc. down on the lower shelf still organized. If you think you needed to, you could take a permanent marker and circle, label the parts, and make notes on the plastic.


NOVEMBER 21, 2007
The crank was treated to the same rust removal as tried on the spare and then the journals measured. This crank is still within specifications and will not need to be ground 10/10 undersize (I get lucky every once in a while).


http://www.hainesengineering.com/rhaines/corvair.htm
_________________
si votre voiture tient pas la route c'est que vous allez trop vite
http://www.fdesouche.com/


Revenir en haut
JM-Cad


Hors ligne

Inscrit le: 04 Juil 2009
Messages: 874
Localisation: St Malo de Guersac

MessagePosté le: Lun 12 Juil - 21:38 (2010)    Sujet du message: CHEVROLET CORVAIR 1966 Répondre en citant

c'est impressionnant le décapage, on avait fait la même chose pour des pièces de la bécane de p'tit raisin et ça marche d"enfer Okay
A+jm.....schuss.....
_________________
Jean-Marc



Revenir en haut
Contenu Sponsorisé






MessagePosté le: Aujourd’hui à 14:38 (2016)    Sujet du message: CHEVROLET CORVAIR 1966

Revenir en haut
Montrer les messages depuis:   
Poster un nouveau sujet   Répondre au sujet    L AMERIQUE A SANCOINS Index du Forum -> Passions autos,motos, tracteurs, moteurs -> LE GARAGE (pour presenter votre auto ou faire un poste sur la restauration ) Toutes les heures sont au format GMT + 1 Heure
Page 1 sur 1

 
Sauter vers:  

Index | Panneau d’administration | créer un forum | Forum gratuit d’entraide | Annuaire des forums gratuits | Signaler une violation | Conditions générales d'utilisation
Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group
Traduction par : phpBB-fr.com